The Neighborhood of Jalatlaco: A Hidden Gem in Oaxaca
Barrio de Jalatlaco, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Oaxaca City, carries a deep sense of history and charm that captivates visitors and locals alike. Its name comes from the Nahuatl words xalli, meaning sand, and atlauhtli, meaning ravine, which translates to “ravine of sand.” Indigenous soldiers initially settled in this area, later named Tepeaca by Hernando Gutiérrez de Badajoz in 1521, but it soon returned to its indigenous name, Jalatlaco.
The charm of Jalatlaco.
Despite being only a short walk from Oaxaca City’s bustling historic center, Jalatlaco maintains a peaceful, almost hidden charm. Its cobblestone streets, colorful murals, and colonial-style houses give the neighborhood a distinct provincial feel that makes you forget how close you are to the city's heart. As you stroll through, you’ll notice single-level homes with beautiful latticed balconies, clay tile roofs, and flower-filled courtyards, evoking an air of yesteryear that offers a serene escape.
This tranquility is mainly because most homes are still inhabited by locals, preserving the authentic Oaxacan lifestyle. While you’ll find some guesthouses, boutique hotels, and cozy cafés, Jalatlaco remains a residential area, allowing it to retain its charm and sense of community.
A Legacy of Craftsmanship: Jalatlaco’s Leather Tanning Tradition
Historically, Jalatlaco was known as a center for leather tanning, a craft that flourished here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The neighborhood's proximity to the Río Jalatlaco made it an ideal location for tanneries, and its craftsmen developed a reputation for producing high-quality leather. What set Jalatlaco’s leather apart was its use of natural bark from the “timbre” tree, which allowed the leather to be worked without tearing, unlike chemically processed leather. This artisanal technique was so renowned that leather goods from Jalatlaco were in demand across Mexico and even exported to the United States.
However, with the rise of plastics and synthetic materials, the leather tanning industry in Jalatlaco declined, and most of the workshops have since disappeared. Only a few remnants of this once-thriving industry remain today, but Jalatlaco’s legacy as a hub of craftsmanship endures.
Religious Devotion and Tradition
Religiosity plays an essential role in the life of Jalatlaco, with the Temple of San Matías Jalatlaco standing as the spiritual heart of the neighborhood. Built-in the late 17th century, this historic church is dedicated to San Matías, the neighborhood's patron saint. Each year, on May 14, the community celebrates its feast day with vibrant processions, music, and traditional food.
The temple’s striking appearance, carefully restored following numerous earthquakes, was declared a historic monument in 1421. Inside, visitors can admire its serene atmosphere and beautiful religious artwork, a testament to the deep faith of the local community.
Jalatlaco Today: A Blend of History and Modernity
Jalatlaco is a neighborhood where the old meets the new. While it has embraced some aspects of modernity, such as welcoming more visitors and boutique accommodations, it remains true to its roots. The neighborhood’s traditional appearance has been carefully preserved, with narrow, picturesque streets that invite you to explore its hidden corners.
One of the standout features of Jalatlaco today is its vibrant street art scene. Murals showcasing the work of local artists bring bursts of color to the walls of its colonial buildings. These artworks often depict scenes of Oaxacan life, cultural symbols, or references to Indigenous heritage, making every walk through Jalatlaco a visual feast.
The neighborhood also comes alive during special occasions, notably the Day of the Dead. During this time, Jalatlaco is adorned with altars, marigolds, and candles, and its quiet streets are filled with families and visitors honoring their loved ones. The festive yet reverent atmosphere offers a unique experience that highlights Oaxaca’s deep cultural traditions.
What to Do and See in Jalatlaco
Temple of San Matías Jalatlaco: Don’t miss visiting this beautiful, historic church, especially if you're in the neighborhood during San Matías’ feast day.
Explore the Street Art: Wander the streets and enjoy the colorful murals that line the walls of Jalatlaco’s colonial homes.
Cafés and Restaurants: While the neighborhood is quieter than the city center, Jalatlaco offers charming spots for a coffee or a traditional Oaxacan meal. Popular choices include small, family-owned restaurants like Panela Jardin Jalatlaco, which provides an authentic taste of the region.
Walk the Cobbled Streets: Take in the peaceful atmosphere as you explore the cobblestone streets and admire the colonial architecture, complete with terracotta roofs and wrought-iron balconies.
Tips for Visitors
Take Your Time: Jalatlaco is a neighborhood that is best explored slowly. Walk through its narrow streets and enjoy its laid-back vibe.
Photograph the Murals: Bring your camera or phone, as the street art in Jalatlaco is some of the most striking in Oaxaca.
Visit During a Festivity: Plan your visit around the Day of the Dead or San Matías’ feast day to experience the neighborhood’s rich traditions.
Stay Local: Consider staying in one of the small guesthouses or boutique hotels to get a real sense of the neighborhood’s quiet charm and connect with its local residents.
Jalatlaco: A Tranquil Escape in Oaxaca
Though just a short walk from the busy Centro Histórico, Barrio de Jalatlaco feels like stepping into another world. Its mix of traditional Oaxacan life, fascinating history, and contemporary art scene makes it a must-visit for anyone wanting to experience the authentic charm of Oaxaca beyond the main tourist spots. Whether you’re visiting for its historical significance or simply looking to enjoy a quiet, beautiful neighborhood, Jalatlaco will leave a lasting impression.
Practice your Spanish and learn more about Jalatlaco
Either throughout the cultural workshop or tertulia course "Barrios de Oaxaca," discover the insights, hidden gems and stories behind the most iconic neighborhoods of Oaxaca
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